What is Screen Goo?
Goo Systems' Screen Goo products are specially formulated, color corrected, screen coatings in liquid form. They are designed to achieve the highest performance levels possible for a given display situation.
Who uses it?
Screen Goo products are being used by all levels of the video industry from do-it-yourself home theater aficionados to large scale commercial and industrial clients.
Can I use it?
Designed for easy application via spraying or rolling, screen goo products can be successfully applied by the novice or professional alike.
Is it expensive?
The cost of screen execution can be as little as the price of the coating itself - when applied to an available wall space. More dedicated videophiles can investigate the possibilities of elaborate framing systems and custom screen design.
Which product for which projector?
A seemingly simple question to
which, of course, there is no simple answer.
To determine the most suitable
Screen Goo coating for any project, consideration needs to be given to Image
Size, Projector Light Output, Ambient Light Levels and Content. You can
determine Which Screen Goo you will need for your application by running our
Goo Systems Product Calculator.
How much do I need?
The Finish Coat and Reflective Coat work together; both are required to create a screen. Finish Coat and Reflective Coat coverage per sq. ft. can vary somewhat, depending on the surface conditions. 1 liter (just slightly more than a US Quart in volume) will typically cover approximately 50 sq. ft. with two thin coats, under ideal conditions on an ideal non-absorptive surface. Starting with a primed white surface is strongly recommended for peak performance.
What Can I Put It On?
Front projection Screen Goo can be applied to any smooth paintable surface. Many materials other than the products listed below can be used
successfully. For best results the surface should be flat and smooth. If this surface to be coated is not smooth, it should be sanded down and wiped off prior to applying the Screen Goo Reflective Coat. Porous surfaces such as drywall, gyproc, and wood based materials such as plywood, particle board, MDF, should be sealed with a flat, white latex primer prior to applying Screen Goo Reflective Coat.
Colored surfaces should also be primed with a flat, white latex.
- Sintra is an excellent material to apply Screen Goo front projection coatings
to. It is very hard and durable and requires no priming prior to being "Goo'ed".
It is, however, somewhat floppy and should be supported to ensure a flat viewing
surface. We suggest choosing white and a minimum 6mm thickness.
- Gatorfoam is another excellent choice for "Goo'ing". It is light weight and
rigid enough to be self-supporting. It is, however, prone to denting and should
probably not be used in high traffic areas or to stop hockey pucks. No priming
is required. We suggest choosing white and a minimum 1/2 inch thickness.
To find a Sintra or Gator
distributor near you, click here:
Blackout Cloth - 3 pass foam, sometimes called blackout cloth, is an excellent fabric substrate for a front projection Goo application. No priming or special preparation is required before "Goo'ing". This material can be used with a stretcher frame to make a lightweight, portable Goo Screen. It is sold by the yard and available in widths up to 110". Rolled Screen Goo applications are not recommended for blackout cloth. Spraying will give optimal results with this substrate
1 - Choose the right roller: We suggest using a 1/4 inch nap, wool and
polyester blend roller. Choose a roller whose label indicates that it is for
smooth and gloss surfaces. We do NOT recommend using foam rollers.
Step 2 - Surface Preparation and Determination of Screen Size: Screen Goo
can be applied to any smooth paintable surface. Many materials other than the
products listed below can be used successfully. For best results the surface
should be flat and smooth. If the surface to be coated is not smooth, it should
be sanded down and wiped off prior to applying the Screen Goo Reflective Coat. Porous
surfaces such as drywall, gyproc, and wood based materials such as plywood,
particle board, MDF, should be sealed with a flat, white latex primer prior to
applying Screen Goo Reflective Coat. Colored surfaces should also be primed with a
flat, white latex.
We recommend mounting your projector in its permanent location before
determining the actual screen dimensions. Once the projector is mounted you
should project an image onto your surface and adjust for image geometry. The
width of the image at the top of the screen should be the
same as the width at the bottom and likewise the sides of the image
should have the same height. Finally you should check that the image is level
and square in the corners. Now you are ready to mask off the area you will be
coating with a high quality painters tape. If you intend to create a border
around your screen you should allow an extra inch around all sides so that the
coated surface will be slightly larger than your projected image.
Step 3 - Reflective Coat: Rolling this product is a bit trickier than
rolling normal latex paint. This means that attention must be paid to
application method and roller handling. Some users report improved results with
a light sanding of the Reflective Coat; we see no disadvantage to this, but only the
Reflective Coat layers should be sanded and then only after allowing for a minimum 24
hour drying period prior to sanding.
Place about 200mL of Reflective Coat in the paint tray to do your first coat. Dab some
on one side of the roller, rotate and dab some on the other. Squeeze out any
excess coating by rolling on the slanted portion of the paint tray. Don't press
too hard. Depending on your screen height, you should have enough paint on the
roller to complete approximately two adjacent vertical columns.
Roll the coating in columns using vertical strokes covering the full height of
the screen. The coating density should be just sufficient to cover the
underlying surface. After the first column is complete, apply the second full
column, adjacent to the first, with a slight overlap between the columns. The
roller should now have very little paint left on it. You're now ready to do your
first finishing stroke. Center the roller above the overlap, making sure the
open end of the roller (which receives less pressure) is facing the just coated
side of your screen surface, so that the overlapping layer will have a lightly
feathered edge. The wire support side of the roller mechanism naturally presses
harder on the surface of the screen, so it should be oriented to the least
recently coated side of the screen. Using just enough pressure to get the roller
turning, do an uninterrupted stroke from just above the top edge of the screen
to just below the bottom edge. It's important not to stop the roller during the
finishing stroke as this could cause marks in the finished surface. Following
the same procedure, roll two adjacent columns at a time with finishing strokes
in between until you've covered the entire viewing surface. Allow the Reflective Coat
to dry thoroughly (typically 1-1.5 hrs.) and then repeat the above procedures
for the second layer of Reflective Coat.
Even after following these instructions to the letter, your wet surface will
have a streaky appearance and the overlaps between the columns will be clearly
visible. THIS IS NORMAL! While we realize that this is a bit counter-intuitive,
the surface will dry to a uniform consistency and color. Resist the temptation
to go back over your work because re-rolling the coating after it has begun to
dry (about 2-3 minutes after application) will cause textural differences,
potentially resulting in permanent streaks.
The following before and after photos
show what you can expect a correctly applied wet surface to look like and the
uniformity of the same surface after it has dried. There's also a screen shot of
an image projected on that same surface.
Step 4 - Finish Coat: After allowing the Reflective Coat to dry, carefully repeat
the above procedures to apply two coats of Finish Coat. Very important! The
finishing strokes should be done no more than 2-3 minutes after the original
paint strokes in a given area. Attempting finishing strokes after this time
period has elapsed will cause the appearance of vertical streaks. This is the
result of a difference in texture caused by re-rolling coating which has begun
to dry! UNLIKE Reflective Coat, THE Finish Coat LAYERS MUST NOT BE SANDED OR
ABRADED UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.
Step 5 - Ultra Black: Your Goo Kit includes a 250mL jar of
Ultra Black, a specially formulated light absorptive coating, and a foam
applicator brush. This is to permit the creation of an optional black border
around your screen. The simplest method of creating a border is to purchase
pre-cut wood trim at your local hardware store, coat it with the Ultra Black and
install it around your Goo viewing surface. If you wish to apply Ultra Black
directly to your wall, use a good quality painter's tape and mask out an area
2-3 inches around the perimeter of the viewing area and then apply the Ultra
Black with the provided foam applicator. The Finish Coat surface must be thoroughly
dry before applying masking tape (minimum 24 hrs). After allowing 4-6 hours for
the Ultra Black to dry, slowly and carefully remove the painter's tape covering
Curing Times: The product can be used immediately after rolling
or spraying and will look very good after the first day, but its performance
will continue to improve for up to 3 months by which time The acrylic mixtures
should be fully cured and clarified.
Following these instructions when applying Screen Goo will give you a uniform
high-performance screen surface that will look fantastic for many years to come.
Sit back and enjoy, you won't believe your eyes!
Please ensure that the surface to be coated is
clean and grease-free. The smoother the surface the better finished product
Porous surfaces such as drywall, gyproc, and wood based materials such as
plywood, particle board, MDF, should be sealed with a flat, white latex primer
prior to applying Screen Goo Reflective Coat.
Drywall surfaces should be finished to a minimum Level 4 standard when
applying our matte coatings (Reference White, High Contrast, Max Contrast);
Level 5 finish is preferable and highly recommended. If you are applying our
Ultra Silver 3D coatings, the surface MUST be finished to Level 5 standard
for correct results. You can download a document defining levels of dry wall
finish here: http://www.buyezrip.com/download/GA-214-96.pdf.
Coloured surfaces should also be primed
with a flat, white latex.
Experienced spray painters will find Screen Goo quite
easy to work with. If you've never used a paint sprayer before, please
consider doing a rolled application instead. If you'd like this to be your
first venture into paint spraying, may we suggest that you take the time to
familiarize yourself with your equipment by experimenting with some less
expensive coatings in inconspicuous areas, prior to attempting your Goo
applications of less than 100 square feet we recommend using an HVLP and/or
pressurized cup spray system employing a gun with a 1.5-2mm tip diameter.
The specific type of gun is less important than the user's familiarity with
it. For larger surfaces, we recommend a piston pump-based airless spray
system with a 12 to 14 inch fan tip, no more than 50 feet of hose and a
minimum 3/4 GPM (gallon per minute) output capacity.
It is very important that none of the spray equipment be contaminated with
solvent-based coatings or cleaning agents as these will ruin the water-based
Screen Goo coatings.
Screen Goo Reflective Coat should be thinned 5-10% by volume with
filtered or distilled water prior to a sprayed application. If using a
pressurized cup system, set the air/paint mixture in the following manner:
Turn off the atomizing pressure. Set the paint tank pressure so that when the
trigger is fully depressed the paint stream will travel about two feet. Set
the atomizing pressure at a approximately 10X the PSI of the paint tank
pressure or enough to completely atomize the coating. If there is no gauge for
cup pressure, set the atomizing pressure to a maximum of 44 PSI. For other
types of guns, follow the manufacturer's instructions for high solids,
Keep the gun at a constant 6" - 8" away from the project. Release the trigger
at the end of each stroke. Then, depress the trigger and overlap the previous
pass by about 1/3. Continue in this fashion for consistent coverage. When the
surface is fully and evenly covered, let dry for 30-45 minutes and then repeat
the procedure for the second and final coat of Reflective Coat.
Finish Coat: Screen Goo Finish Coat will not require thinning. Follow the same
procedure as for the Reflective Coat but allow 45-60 minutes drying time between the
two coats of Finish Coat.
Coating an Existing (vinyl) Projection Screen
with Screen Goo?:
The main consideration when looking to coat an existing projection screen using
Screen Goo is that the substrate you're working with, vinyl, contains volatile
plasticizers which can, if not isolated form the water-based acrylic Goo, cause
discoloration and have other negative effects on the Goo coatings. Therefore the
surface to be coated must be prepped with a Urethane-Modified Acrylic such as
UMA by XIM prior to being coated with Screen Goo. Additionally, if the
screen to be coated rolls up, then both the front and back sides of the existing
screen must be prepped with the Urethane-Modified Acrylic, otherwise the
plasticizers out-gassing from the back of the screen will affect the coated
front side. It is also good practice to let the freshly applied Goo coatings to
air cure for 30 days or so before rolling up a retractable screen...
Faint vertical lines or streaks may be visible where your roller patterns overlap. These are not unusual and in almost all cases they will clear up on their own as the coating cures.
It is also possible and/or likely that the streaks are a
function of your top Finish coat application or simply a matter of ambient
humidity retarding the drying process.
As a troubleshooting exercise, run your fingertips very
lightly across an area where the surface transitions from a lighter to darker
area. If you feel a change in the texture of the surface then you'll need to
apply one more coat of Finish coat to correct the problem. If the texture is
uniform then the surface will cure to a uniform appearance.
If you can still see these lines 4-6 weeks after application, please
contact us for assistance.
A rolled Goo screen will have a slightly bumpy or "orange peel" texture to it. This is entirely normal. Do not attempt to sand or otherwise smooth the surface as this will compromise the performance of the screen.
The product can be used immediately after rolling or spraying and will look very good after the first day, but its performance will continue to improve for up to 6 weeks by which time the acrylic mixtures should be fully cured and clarified.
Following these instructions when applying Screen Goo coatings will give you a uniform high-performance screen surface that will look fantastic for many years to come. Sit back and enjoy, you won't believe your eyes!
and Cleaning of a Screen Goo Coated Surface:
A Screen Goo finish is very matte and such finishes are, by nature, porous. This
means they hold dirt more aggressively than semi-gloss or gloss surfaces. Care
should be taken to keep the surface dust and dirt free. Matte surfaces can be
damaged by forceful scrubbing and abrasives of any kind should never be used.
Should your screen surface require cleaning beyond keeping it
dust-free, these are the steps to follow:
surface using a soft brush attachment, removing any dust and debris.
bucket of warm, mildly soapy water. A tablespoon of dish soap in a 5 gallon
bucket is suggested.
Using a soft,
well-wrung sponge, to avoid any drips, gently daub and rub any sticky dirt
off the surface.
drips, gently sponge wash the entire surface.
Using a bucket
of clean water and a fresh, well-wrung sponge, rinse the surface of any
remaining soap residue.
surface with soft, lint-free cloths. Gently daub the rinse water off the
surface, again avoiding scrubbing.
You can also
go here for a video on how best to clean a Screen Goo coated surface.
Why Goo instead of typical wall paint?
Wall paint is designed and engineered principally to cover an underlying surface and to provide
color in a room. These are relatively straightforward objectives and they are accomplished by paint manufacturers through the use of an inexpensive dispersion medium (typically, water-based acrylic or an oil-based medium) to which a pigment or pigments are added to provide
color. Usually, relatively small amounts of pigment are used and then supplemented with extenders whose main purpose is to reduce the amount of expensive pigment required to produce the desired
color. This can be done because the quantity of light reflected by wall paint is relatively unimportant.
By contrast, Screen Goo has been specifically engineered to accurately reflect and disperse the complex
colored light patterns produced by video projectors. To that end, Screen Goo starts by employing a premium acrylic dispersion with very low light absorption characteristics and excellent durability. To minimize light loss and to ensure
color fidelity, Screen Goo uses much greater concentrations of pigment than those found in house paint. These pigments are carefully chosen to accurately reflect the full spectrum of
color produced by video projectors as opposed to house paints where the goal is to reflect that portion of the light which produces the single desired
color. In addition, Goo Systems employs proprietary dispersion and pigment treatment techniques to maximize the reflective properties of the pigments employed. These techniques require custom built machinery and are very time and
Lastly, unlike wall paint which involves the application of a single product, a Screen Goo application consists of two different products. Screen Goo Reflective Coats provide an ideal reflective surface to which a diffusive,
color correct Finish Coat is added. It is the combination of the reflective Reflective Coat and the diffusive Finish Coat which gives a Screen Goo screen its remarkable qualities of high reflectivity,
color accuracy, wide viewing angles and excellent contrast. The icing on the cake is the very special sense of image depth, or feeling of looking into the picture that only a Screen Goo screen provides.
Why a Grey coating instead of white?
One of the key properties of high quality projected video is contrast. Contrast is defined as the difference between the brightest and darkest portions of an image. The latest generations of digital projectors have very little difficulty in producing high levels of brightness. However, the darker areas of an image, specifically black areas, are a different matter entirely. Black is defined as the absence of light. Any light in a room, even light produced by the projector and reflected from the room's wall and ceilings, will compromise the accurate reproduction of black. By using a neutral grey reflective surface, or screen, the levels of incidental or unwanted light can be significantly reduced without affecting
color accuracy and overly compromising image brightness. Less unwanted reflected light means better black levels, which in turn means enhanced contrast. Unless the viewing room is completely light controlled, including dark, non-reflective walls and ceiling, a grey screen will always provide better black levels and higher contrast than a white screen. Goo Systems'
"Which Goo" online calculator
will help you decide which of the Screen Goo grey coatings will provide the maximum possible contrast in your room with your projector.
My projector isn't listed on the calculator, now what?
Simply select "Other" from the projector drop down menu and enter the requested projector specifications. You can then proceed as if your projector was one the models already listed in the projector drop down menu.
Screen Goo Rear Projection and Infra-Red Light
Screen Goo Rear Projection coating does not permit the transmission of 850nM