Goo Systems Global

Rather not paint Screen Goo Yourself?

Video - In the spirit of a picture being worth a thousand words, we're making the following instructional video, featuring the inimitable KBK, available in quicktime format. It's a rather large file (11 megabytes), so we suggest downloading it (patiently!) in its entirety before attempting to play it.

Click Here to Download Goo Rolling Video

Rolling Instructions:

Inspecting a primed surface for irregularities before applying Screen Goo Step 1 - Choose the right roller: We suggest using a 1/4 inch nap, wool and polyester blend roller. Choose a roller whose label indicates that it is for smooth and gloss surfaces. We do NOT recommend using foam rollers.

Step 2 - Surface Preparation and Determination of Screen Size: Screen Goo can be applied to any smooth paintable surface. Many materials other than the products listed below can be used successfully. For best results the surface should be flat and smooth. If the surface to be coated is not smooth, it should be sanded down and wiped off prior to applying the Screen Goo Reflective Coat. Porous surfaces such as drywall, gyproc, and wood based materials such as plywood, particle board, MDF, should be sealed with a flat, white latex primer prior to applying Screen Goo Reflective Coat. Drywall surfaces should be finished to a minimum Level 4 standard when applying our matte coatings (Reference White, High Contrast, Max Contrast); Level 5 finish is preferable and highly recommended. You can download a document defining levels of dry wall finish here: http://www.buyezrip.com/download/GA-214-96[1].pdf. Colored surfaces should also be primed with a flat, white latex.

We recommend mounting your projector in its permanent location before determining the actual screen dimensions. Once the projector is mounted you should project an image onto your surface and adjust for image geometry. The width of the image at the top of the screen should be the same as the width at the bottom and likewise the sides of the image should have the same height. Finally you should check that the image is level and square in the corners. Now you are ready to mask off the area you will be coating with a high quality painters tape. If you intend to create a border around your screen you should allow an extra inch around all sides so that the coated surface will be slightly larger than your projected image

Step 3 - Reflective Coat: Rolling this product is a bit trickier than rolling normal latex paint. This means that attention must be paid to application method and roller handling. Some users report improved results with a light sanding of the Reflective Coat; we see no disadvantage to this, but only the Reflective Coat layers should be sanded and then only after allowing for a minimum 24 hour drying period prior to sanding.

Place about 200mL of Reflective Coat in the paint tray to do your first coat. Dab some on one side of the roller, rotate and dab some on the other. Squeeze out any excess coating by rolling on the slanted portion of the paint tray. Don't press too hard. Depending on your screen height, you should have enough paint on the roller to complete approximately two adjacent vertical columns.

Roll the coating in columns using vertical strokes covering the full height of the screen. The coating density should be just sufficient to cover the underlying surface. After the first column is complete, apply the second full column, adjacent to the first, with a slight overlap between the columns. The roller should now have very little paint left on it. You're now ready to do your first finishing stroke. Center the roller above the overlap, making sure the open end of the roller (which receives less pressure) is facing the just coated side of your screen surface, so that the overlapping layer will have a lightly feathered edge. The wire support side of the roller mechanism naturally presses harder on the surface of the screen, so it should be oriented to the least recently coated side of the screen. Using just enough pressure to get the roller turning, do an uninterrupted stroke from just above the top edge of the screen to just below the bottom edge. It's important not to stop the roller during the finishing stroke as this could cause marks in the finished surface. Following the same procedure, roll two adjacent columns at a time with finishing strokes in between until you've covered the entire viewing surface. Allow the Reflective Coat to dry thoroughly (typically 1-1.5 hrs.) and then repeat the above procedures for the second layer of Reflective Coat.

VERY IMPORTANT!
Even after following these instructions to the letter, your wet surface will have a streaky appearance and the overlaps between the columns will be clearly visible. THIS IS NORMAL! While we realize that this is a bit counter-intuitive, LEAVE IT ALONE and the surface will dry to a uniform consistency and color. Resist the temptation to go back over your work because re-rolling the coating after it has begun to dry (about 2-3 minutes after application) will cause textural differences, potentially resulting in permanent streaks.

The following before and after photos show what you can expect a correctly applied wet surface to look like and the uniformity of the same surface after it has dried. There's also a screen shot of an image projected on that same surface.

Before Drying After Drying Screen Shot

Step 4 - Finish Coat: After allowing the Reflective Coat to dry, carefully repeat the above procedures to apply two coats of Finish Coat. Very important! The finishing strokes should be done no more than 2-3 minutes after the original paint strokes in a given area. Attempting finishing strokes after this time period has elapsed will cause the appearance of vertical streaks. This is the result of a difference in texture caused by re-rolling coating which has begun to dry! UNLIKE Reflective Coat, THE Finish Coat LAYERS MUST NOT BE SANDED OR ABRADED UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.

Step 5 - Ultra Black: Your Goo Kit includes a 250mL jar of Ultra Black, a specially formulated light absorptive coating, and a foam applicator brush. This is to permit the creation of an optional black border around your screen. The simplest method of creating a border is to purchase pre-cut wood trim at your local hardware store, coat it with the Ultra Black and install it around your Goo viewing surface. If you wish to apply Ultra Black directly to your wall, use a good quality painter's tape and mask out an area 2-3 inches around the perimeter of the viewing area and then apply the Ultra Black with the provided foam applicator. The Finish Coat surface must be thoroughly dry before applying masking tape (minimum 24 hrs). After allowing 4-6 hours for the Ultra Black to dry, slowly and carefully remove the painter's tape covering the border.

Curing Times: The product can be used immediately after rolling or spraying and will look very good after the first day, but its performance will continue to improve for up to 3 months by which time The acrylic mixtures should be fully cured and clarified.

Following these instructions when applying Screen Goo will give you a uniform high-performance screen surface that will look fantastic for many years to come. Sit back and enjoy, you won't believe your eyes!

Close up of a fresh Topcoat application over

the dry Basecoat layers. A visible texture is desired.

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Spraying Instructions:

PLEASE NOTE; THESE INSTRUCTIONS REFER TO APPLICATIONS OF SCREEN GOO REFERENCE WHITE, HIGH CONTRAST AND MAX CONTRAST COATINGS ONLY.

FOR REAR PROJECTION APPLICATIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THE RP-SPEC DATA SHEET

FOR ULTRA SILVER 3D APPLICATIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THE US3D-SPEC DATA SHEET

Surface Preparation: Please ensure that the surface to be coated is clean and grease-free. The smoother the surface the better the finished product will be. Porous surfaces such as Drywall, Gyproc, and wood based materials such as Plywood, Particle Board, MDF, should be sealed with a flat, white latex primer prior to applying Screen Goo Reflective Coat. Drywall surfaces should be finished to a minimum Level 4 standard when applying our matte coatings (Reference White, High Contrast, Max Contrast); Level 5 finish is preferable and highly recommended.

You can download a document defining levels of dry wall finish here: http://www.buyezrip.com/download/GA-214-96[1].pdf . Coloured surfaces should also be primed with a flat, white latex.

User Preparation: Experienced spray painters will find Screen Goo quite easy to work with. If you've never used a paint sprayer before, please consider doing a rolled application instead. If you'd like this to be your first venture into paint spraying, may we suggest that you take the time to familiarize yourself with your equipment by experimenting with some less expensive coatings in inconspicuous areas, prior to attempting your Goo masterpiece!

Suggested equipment: For applications of less than 100 square feet we recommend using an HVLP and/or pressurized cup spray system employing a gun with a 1.5-2mm tip diameter. The specific type of gun is less important than the user's familiarity with it. For larger surfaces, we recommend a piston pump-based airless spray system with a 12 to 14 inch fan tip, no more than 50 feet of hose and a minimum 3/4 GPM (gallon per minute) output capacity. It is very important that none of the spray equipment be contaminated with solvent-based coatings or cleaning agents as these will ruin the water-based Screen Goo coatings.

Reflective Coat: Screen Goo Reflective Coats can be thinned up to 10% by volume with filtered or distilled water prior to a sprayed application. Polypropylene Glycol-based drying retardants, such as Screen Goo Flow Release, may also be used according to the manufacturer's instructions for water-based acrylic coatings.

Apply two thin coats, allowing at least an hour drying time between coats, Allow for a longer drying time in cooler or damper conditions. The surface must be touch dry prior to re-coating

Finish Coat: Follow the same procedure as for the Reflective Coat.

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Curing Times - Read Complete Article at http://www.ehow.com - How Long Should Latex Paint Dry Between Coats?

Several factors affect the drying time of latex paint. The humidity and temperature when the paint is applied has a significant effect. The method of application makes a difference, as does the sheen and even paint color. The directions on the label give you a general idea of how long latex paint needs to dry between coats, but sometimes you need to wait longer than suggested.

Understand Drying Time and Curing Time: While latex paint usually dries to the touch within an hour (meaning lightly running your finger over it does not mar the paint), it can take up to a month to cure to its final hard finish. This is because latex paint forms a dry skin on the surface, but the underlying paint is still wet. The liquids in the paint must completely evaporate through the dry skin to be considered cured.

Re-coating too soon can affect the look and performance of your paint job, both in drying and curing rates.

Average Re-Coating Times: The general recommendation for drying time between coats is four hours for both interior and exterior latex (water-based) paints. However, take the temperature and humidity level into consideration. For ideal drying times, the temperature should be about 70 degrees F, with 70-percent humidity or less, and a light breeze or sufficient air movement to help the paint liquids evaporate.

In cooler temperatures, or when the humidity is high, allow more time between coats. Re-coating too soon can result in an uneven sheen and very long curing times, causing doors and windows to stick. Applying too many coats too close together can also make the paint bubble and blister as the underlying paint liquids force their way through the paint film.

Some properties in the paint itself affect drying time. Deep colors may take longer because of the higher amounts of tint in the paint. Flat paint dries slower than shinier paint. Latex dries more quickly on porous surfaces like drywall, and paint applied with a sprayer or heavy-napped roller usually produces a heavier, slower-drying film.

When in doubt, it's wise to allow a little extra time for the paint to dry between coats. If the humidity level is very high, put a dehumidifier in the area to speed dying time. At humidity levels at 90 percent or higher, the paint may never dry and will certainly never cure.

Painting Over Latex Primer: Many primers are latex, and some require different drying times than regular paint. Always read the label. Some latex primers should be re-coated within 48 hours for maximum performance, while others can be re-coated any time after the recommended drying time.

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Rather not paint Screen Goo yourself?

Not comfortable with painting your Goo screen yourself? Click here to locate a qualified painting professional in your area.

Professional Spray Application Services

zoe.paine@rosebrand.com - Professional sprayed applications of Screen Goo products in the USA are now available through Rose Brand. On-site service is also offered. Please contact Zoe Paine via the provided email link to discuss the details of your project.

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